Blog

A Day out in Calatanazor & surrounds A quiet country road passing by cultivated fields, limestone hills and forgotten villages takes you to the idyllic medieval village of Calatañazor, one of my favourite places in Soria.  Our last visit to Calatañazor was just a few days before Semana Santa (Easter Week) with a small group of guests.  Calatañazor is one of Soria’s most popular attractions, but the weekday morning we visited we had the narrow streets and irregular lanes all to ourselves, except for a few locals going about their daily routines.  The name Calatañazor is derived from the Arab “calat am nasur” meaning Castle of the vultures.  Being early morning we didn’t see any of the Griffon Vultures (Gyps fulvus) that give the village its name but as the cliffs behind the village are a known nesting ground they can usually be seen circling the skies above. Stepping into Calatañazor is like being transported into medieval Spain.  Declared a National Monument’ for its historic and artistic beauty, Calatañazor also commands outstanding views across the surrounding countryside and offers the visitor fantastic sunsets.  Strategically positioned during Celt Iberian and Roman times, Calatañazor is better known, historically, as the place where the fearless Moorish leader Almanzor suffered his greatest defeat in the year 1002 AD, a significant turning point in the Christian Reconquest of Spain.  The Calatañazor that you see today is typically medieval in design and layout.  From the Plaza Mayor begins a picturesque porticoed street, with Juniper posts supporting the upper floors of the houses and also providing a covered walkway, a great place to sit and watch daily life. The traditional houses have two levels: the ground floor is made up of limestone walls and the upper level is a mixture of a Juniper wood framework and adobe.  The main feature of the homes is the conical chimney, which is the centre of the home and the first part to be constructed, to a design that has not changed much since Celt Iberian times.  Juniper is a durable, rot-proof wood so you can understand why it features in the traditional houses in Calatañazor but a more important factor may be the abundance of Common Juniper (Juniperus Communis) and Spanish Incense Juniper (Juniperus thurifera) in the surrounding area. Which links us in perfectly to the next stop of the day, La Sabinas de Calatañazor.  This forest of Sabinas (Spanish Incense Juniper) is perhaps one of the best preserved in the world for a species which is now considered endangered.  This 74 hectare Natural Reserve has around 22 hectares of Sabinas and is a relic of the Tertiary Period.  Some of the trees are 14 metres high and more than 2 metres in diameter and are thought to be up to 500 years old. As we entered the reserve one of the things that grabbed our attention was the birdsong, the only sound on a peaceful spring morning.  The forest is home to many species of birds and our group saw Common Redstarts, Mistle Thrush, Crested Tit and Coal Tits.        After a gentle stroll through the Sabinas we headed back to our vehicle and drove on another 3kms to the small village of Muriel del Fuente.  From here our group set out on foot for the 3km round trip to La Fuentona, the deepest Karst resurgence on the Iberian Peninsular.  Our trail followed the course of the River Abion back to its source, the resurgence.  As we’d had no rain to speak of for several weeks the waters flowing along the Abion were crystal clear, allowing us to see the river bed and the small minnows that inhabit the river.  Although the weather was a little fresh, the clear blue skies and surrounding limestone cliffs with their pink oxide colouring where the perfect backdrop for our walk.  Stopping to allow a few of our group to take photos we got a rare sight of an Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus).  These relatively small vultures are not as abundant in Soria as the Griffons but can be found during the breeding season nesting along the cliffs of the canyons that surround both the Abion and Lobos Rivers.  The resurgence, known as the Ojo del Mar (Eye of the Sea), is a small quarry shaped funnel, which is 30 metres in diameter and 9 meters deep.  Over the centuries it has given rise to legends that have surrounded this area in mystery.  Explored and investigated over the last 25 years, thanks to new cave diving techniques, some of its secrets have been revealed.  In 2002 an expedition team explored the cave beneath the resurgence to a depth of 100m, but total exploration of the area has yet to be carried out.  On approaching the Ojo del Mar, its most striking feature is the colour of the water, which takes on varying shades of blue depending on the angle at which you look at it as it refracts the sunlight.  One of the best views of the resurgence is gained by carefully scrambling up the steep rocky slope behind it, which is exactly what we all did and whilst taking in the magical scene we witnessed a large Common Trout breaking through the surface of the water in pursuit of its next meal. From the Ojo del Mar there are several circular marked trails that you can take to explore the area further but today we decided to return to the car park the way we’d come in and were rewarded by a sighting of a Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea).  We first saw the heron, silently gliding past us as it navigated the course of the Abion River and then further up the trail we spotted it again.  This time tall and elegant, standing completely still on the water’s edge, presumably waiting patiently for something edible to come into striking range. Before departing we stopped next to the hermitage of Our Lady of the Valley, at the entrance of La Fuentona, for our own much needed refuelling.   Hasta Luego Spanish Footsteps

25.4.09 12:28 Permalink / comment

Walking to the Pico de Urbion The Picos de Urbión is one of the most important sections of the ‘Sistema Ibérico’ (Iberian System), the mountain range that crosses east to west through the north of the Iberian Peninsula.  In this range we find the source of the Duero, one of Spain’s great rivers.  The region is also a popular location for walkers and outdoor enthusiasts and is home to the magnificent glacial lake, the ‘Laguna Negra’ (Black Lagoon), an inspirational place of the famous Spanish poet Antonio Machado.    The higher levels are steep, rocky and barren, with an abundance of vegetation in the valleys and lower slopes.  The surrounding forests are the habitat of the Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris), Roe Deer (Capreolus capreolus), Wild Boar (Sus scrofa), Badger (Meles meles), Fox (Vulpes vulpes) and a large variety of birds.  The Sierra de Urbión is also home to Soria’s only recorded pack of European Wolves (Canis Lupus Lupus).       One of the most popular walks is a circular trail from ‘Laguna Negra’ to the ‘Urbión’ peak, returning via ‘Laguna Helada’.  The best time of year to undertake this walk really depends on your level of experience.  Summer is when you’ll find it most frequented by all levels of walkers.  Spring and early autumn offer a quieter journey and a sense of solitude, sometimes with a small amount of snow on the surrounding peaks.  In winter the trail can be covered in snow and should only be attempted if you are an experienced hiker.  Whatever the season it’s important to check the weather before departing.  We opted to complete the walk in mid autumn as the weather was cooler and the surrounding vegetation took on new hues.    After checking the weather forecast we set off on a cool but clear Saturday morning.  The road up to ‘Laguna Negra’ is clearly signposted, and is accessed from the picturesque village of Vinuesa.  The 18km journey weaves through forest, predominantly Pine, which in autumn are teeming with mushrooms collectors looking for Saffron Milk Caps (Lactarius deliciosus) and Pine Boletes (Boletus pinophilus).    We arrived at ‘Laguna Negra’ around 10.30am and found ourselves sharing this wonderful spot with several family groups, photographing the autumnal scenes and reciting Machado on the boardwalk that surrounds the lagoon.  The sheer granite cliffs that hang above the lagoon are partially wooded with Beech (Fagus Sylvatica), Durmast Oak (Quercus Petrae), Trembling Poplar (Populus Tremula), Silver Birch (Betula Alba) and Rowan Mountain Ash (Sorbus Aucuparia).    At the end of the boardwalk the walking trail begins at 1,761 metres above sea level.  Being a variant of the GR86, the start of the trail is marked out with posts bearing white and red stripes, emerging from between the boulders that line the lagoon foreshore.  Crossing over a small stream, that is fed by a cascading waterfall and leaving the day trippers behind we commenced our ascent up the granite rock face.  The trail was well worn, but required concentration.  Twenty minutes later, following plenty of stops to turn and admire the scenery, we arrived at the top of the cliff, called the ‘Portillo’ (1,850 metres).  Here we were greeted with fantastic aerial views over ‘Laguna Negra’ and ‘Risco Zorraquin’ (Zorraquin crag).   After a few more photos and a short break, we followed the trail along the precipice passed Scots Pines (Pinus sylvestris) and Heather (Calluna vulgaris).  Crossing the stream again we headed away from the cliffs in a north westerly direction along a well worn narrow path.  At this point the GR markings are replaced by cairns (those small piles of stones maintained by other thoughtful walkers) reassuring us that we were on the correct trail through the glacial valley.    Following an old shepherds route we crossed several small streams with crystal clear waters and traversed undulating pastoral land before heading up a steep slope with spectacular views over the Revinuesa Valley.  The trail then gently descended bringing us alongside another glacial lake, ‘Laguna Larga’ (2,016m).   From here it was only another 15 minutes before we were at the summit of the ‘Pico de Urbión’ (2,228m).  There was not a hint of snow on the solemn yet stunning peak.  The barren stony ground underfoot gave way to breathtaking views over the valley of the Revinuesa and the Sierras de Neila, Demanda and Duruelo, a scene very similar to the Andes in South America. There were numerous unusual rock formations rising up out of the flat land between the ‘Llanos de la Sierra’ (flat lands of the mountain range) and the peak on which we were standing.  Although we were less than 2 hours to Vinuesa, it felt like we were a continent away from civilization.               From the summit you can either continue on to the source of the Duero or to the ‘Sierra de Neila’.   However, with lunch planned in one of Vinuesa’s superb restaurants we decided to descend via ‘Laguna Helada’, returning back to ‘Laguna Negra’.   Leaving the summit and heading in a southerly direction, we followed a forestry road for about 900m before bearing left into the ‘Llanos de la Sierra’, where we came across a ‘Chozo’, a small stone shepherd’s refuge.  There were several deer tracks in the moist dirt, but none to be seen.  The trail then skirted the edge of the Laguna Helada (1,993m), which was teaming with life such as, Floating Water Plantain (Lurunium natans) and scores of Marsh Frogs (Rana ridibunda) that being startled by our arrival, were diving for cover into the water.    As the trail descended further, vegetation started to reappear and we were once again in the presence of heather and young Scots pines. At the lookout point called ‘El Mirador’ (1,981m), we were rewarded with more fantastic views over ‘Laguna Negra’ and another opportunity for aerial photos.  From here we followed the same steep trail we taken up, this time heading down, with stunning views of ‘Laguna Negra’ in front of us    Whilst our wildlife count for the day was lighter than expected the dramatic scenery more than made up for it and we’ll definitely be returning to the area in spring to take up another challenging walk.  All in all a highly recommended excursion.         Hasta Luego SpanishFootsteps

3.2.09 17:29 Permalink / comment

Matanza The ritual of slaughtering a pig (Matanza) was once of great importance for the rural populations of Spain. This annual event would ensure the larder was stocked with meat for the coming year, and that the calories needed to carry out all that hard manual farm work were at hand. However over time as rural communities have shrunk and manual work lessened with machinery the necessity of the matanza has diminished but the practice still continues on a smaller scale due to it's long tradition. Taking place in winter when the cooler weather allows for less haste and less bacteria, the matanza is a family event with everyone coming together to help and feast over a number of days. Neighbours will also join together, helping each other out in return for an armful of chorizo or morcilla. The men are responsible for killing and butchering the pig, whilst the women take care of all the preparation. Traditionally expert countrywomen (known as 'sabias' or wise women) would come to work at the matanza, their knowledge of how to prepare everything would ensure the year's supply of meat would not be in jeopardy. Not wanting to get into any details I'll just add that the animal is killed in a humane way and after the carcass has been checked over for any signs of disease it's butchered. All of this is done either at home or in a village matadero (traditional slaughter house, constructed for all villagers to use). Every part of the animal is carefully collected and used, nothing goes to waste. The day's first major task is the deconstruction of the animal and classification of all the body parts and types of meat. The intestines are handed over to a group of women who wash them in successive salt water baths getting them ready to be stuffed with either 'picadillo', the bright orange mixture of meat, salt, garlic and pimenton that once cured is chorizo or with a mixture of blood, rice and spices that once cooked is morcilla (similar to black pudding). There are no recipes, it's all done by eye and then by taste. Once the stuffings are mixed, small spoonfuls are fried and sampled with a glass of red wine and bread. Then the mixtures are adjusted and again sampled until a consensus has been reached that they are just right. This process in itself can go on for quite some time and several bottles of wine. The hams are salted and hung to dry. Salchichas (sausages) are also made with some being boiled then hung to dry as Salchichon (similar to salami). The pork chops, sirloin and other fresh meat are grilled and eaten in the following days or frozen. And when all the work is done the reward is a grand feast for all involved and for the owners of the pig almost a years supply of cured hams, sausages, bacon, and fresh meat and chorizo. But as with many traditions the matanza is changing. Rural life has been replaced with city living and supermarkets offer everything as and when its needed, so the matanza has become more of a social and cultural event, than a necessity. As the tradition of matanza is practiced less the knowledge that goes with it is also becoming lost. In recent years the EU has brought in regulations that require every local council to ensure the matanzas are carried out in accordance with strict sanitation laws and all carcasses must be certified by a vet prior to being butchered. As many rural Spanish households raise their own animals for their own consumption these new rules have not been well received. It's now becoming commonplace for family and neighbourhood groups to bypass these new regulations by arranging with a local butcher to deliver a whole certified carcass rather than take on the extra work of completing paperwork and hiring a vet. And there are even those who buy just the meat and casing required to put together a batch of homemade chorizo. However rather than disappear altogether, it is likely that the tradition of matanza will continue to adapt in Spain, one of the worlds biggest consumers of pork. Hasta Luego SpanishFootsteps

2.2.09 11:16 Permalink / comment

Holly and Christmas With Christmas fast approaching it seems appropriate to write about Holly, that prickly green plant that is a traditional Christmas decoration in many western cultures.   Holly is wide spread and many differing species can be found in Asia, Europe, North and South American and Africa.  Ilex Aquifolium, also known as European Holly, English Holly or Christ’s Thorn can be found in parts of Europe, but nothing like that of the Garagüeta here in Soria.   Garagüeta, located in the province of Soria in Northern Spain, is the most extensive holly wood in Europe (500 hectares).  It is the only one in the world to boast being nominated as a Natural Reserve, a Special Bird Protection Zone (ZEPA) and Community area of Interest (LIC) all in one.  Birds take advantage of Garagüeta during their migration north after winter, stopping here as there is plenty of food.   This evergreen tree grows between 2 – 10 meters high, but has been known to reach up to 16 meters high.  The leaves at the bottom of the tree are prickly for protection against animals that find it a tempting snack.  As the tree grows taller the leaves smoothen because the tree no longer needs to defend itself.  During winter when most of the other trees have shed their leaves, the Holly is very much alive and bushy which is handy for the little animals that use it for protection and who also feed off the berries that fall.  From May to August the tree bears clusters of small, wax-like, white flowers, which later become the red berries we all love to see.   The slow-growing, wood is very white except in the centre and has been used for turning and inlaying.  It can be stained and has been used in place of ebony for the black handles of tea-pots.  It is also excellent for engraving.  Naturally strict measures are now in place to prevent anyone from cutting the trees down for any of the above uses.   Holly has been used in this area for centuries, mainly for the feeding of livestock, medicine and rituals.  It has survived so well because of the continual importance the locals have for it.  The leaves have been used medicinally in cases of fever, colds and rheumatism. The yerba or mate tea of South America is made from the leaves of a similar species (Ilex paraguayensis).  On the flip side though, the berries are toxic and would give any human a pretty bad stomach ache.   The Celt Iberians in this region called the holly ‘Tinne’ but also referred to it as ‘the sacred tree’ and considered it as their protector.  If you put it in your house it is said to protect you against bad luck, lightening and frighten off bad spirits.    Holly has strong symbolism for pagans.  Druids worn sprigs of holly in their hair when they entered forests, believing that as holly did not wilt and fade during the depths of winter that it held the life of the forest and was therefore magical.  Holly was also an important part of the winter solstice celebrations. These celebrations coincided with the Roman festival of Saturnalia, held on the 25th of December. During this festival Romans gave each other holly wreaths and also adorned images of Saturn with holly.  Later Christians adorned their homes with holly wreaths during the Saturnalia festival to avoid persecution from the Romans.  Over time Christian faith has absorbed the custom of holly adornment into Christmas, something many of us continue with today. Hasta Luego & Merry Christmas SpanishFootsteps

8.12.08 15:13 Permalink / comment

High Praise for Soria In late October Soria held the International Conference on Mycology (Soria Gastronomical).  20 top chefs from all over the world with a combined 24 Michelin stars participated with the main draw card being Ferrán Adriá, of El Bulli fame.  Adriá, considered the world´s best chef, is known for his experimental and unique culinary creations.  He sung the praises of Soria´s mycological produce and told conference goers that Soria has a historical opportunity to become a world leader in mycology, with it's black truffles being the jewel in the crown. Another top chef described Soria as a mycological garden.  Although this is not news to us and our guests that have sampled Soria´s mycological cuisine, it´s great to hear such high praise.   Hasta Luego SpanishFootsteps

3.12.08 13:37 Permalink / comment

What we're doing in 2009. I've been a bit quiet with the blog recently over the last month or so we have been busy putting together new tours, holidays and schedules for 2009.  Here's a brief overview of what Spanish Footsteps is offering for your 2009 holiday. Discover Soria Journey is an excellent introduction to the province of Soria in Northern Spain.  This 7 day walking holiday in Northern Spain is based around the region of the province known as 'Green Soria'.  Discover some of the many hidden gems including, the 'Nature Reserve' of the Canyon Rio Lobos, the medieval frescos of San Baudelio and Celt Iberian and Roman Numancia with an average of approximately 7km (4¼ miles) of leisurely walking each day.  Available as a Guided Tour or Self Guided Holiday.     Sorian Footsteps Journey is perfect for those wanting a walking holiday in Spain filled with history, nature and culture.  On this 7 day holiday you will walk in the footsteps of El Cid, Almanzor, the Catholic Kings and the Celt Iberian and Romans who inhabited these lands. Average approximately 9½ km (6 miles) of leisurely walking a day.  Available as a Guided Tour or Self Guided Holiday.     The Camino de Santiago in Soria Journey is a great exploration into the history of the 3 routes that pilgrims traditionally took through the province to Santiago de Compostela.  Visit Knights Templar Hermitages, the remains of pilgrim's hospitals and places connected with the legends of Santiago's (St James) appearances.   Available as a Cultural Guided Tour or Self Guided Holiday.     Single Base Journeys: With no fixed itinerary the following Independent Journeys allow you explore this fantastic region at your own pace from a Single Base, chosen for its charm and uniqueness.       Urbion Exploration Journey is based in the quaint rural village of Vinuesa.  This small interesting village is located in the 'Pinares' (Pine region), the largest forest mass on the Iberian Peninsula.  A draw card for outdoor enthusiasts throughout the year with many walking and hiking routes where you can enjoy spectacular scenery, wild herbs  & flowers, native trees, birds and the fresh smell of pine.  Available as a Self Guided Walking Holiday.   Razon Valley Homestay Stay with us, Alfredo & Louise, in our welcoming family home in the popular Razon River Valley region of Soria.  Take in the spectacular views of the Razon Valley over breakfast.  Head out on your own during the day to explore this diverse province.  We are on hand to share with you our local knowledge, tell you about some of our favourite places and provide back up assistance should you require it.  Available as a Self Guided Cultural Holiday.      A Taste of Medieval Soria Journey is based in the historic walled town of El Burgo de Osma which is well placed for exploring medieval Soria.  For those interested in nature the Canyon Rio Lobos offers stunning scenery and a hidden Knights Templar Hermitage.  Available as a Self Guided Cultural Holiday.     Create your Own Journey exclusively for your small group of friends, family or Social Club.  All aspects of your journey are tailored to suit your interests and specific requirements.   Choose the accommodation options to suit your group's size and budget.  Tell us how you would like to get around, what interests, hobbies and activities your group shares.  Then leave the rest to us.  We are dedicated to organizing the perfect holiday for you, custom made with as much or as little walking as you wish to include.   Activities on offer in Soria:  Horse riding ~ Mountain Biking ~ Mushroom Collecting ~ Walking ~  Canoeing ~ Caving ~ Hiking ~ Rock Climbing ~ Bird Watching ~ Abseiling ~ Shepherd for a Day ~ Joining in local fiestas Places of Interest: Soria's history is long & diverse, giving the visitor an enormous range of interesting and thought provoking places to explore.   I'm sure you're going to be as excited about our new holidays as we are. " src="http://www.20six.co.uk/ap/smilies/jump.gif" border="0" />   Hasta Luego SpanishFootsteps

3.12.08 13:32 Permalink / comment

Autumn Mushrooms The talk around town is that this year has been pretty poor for wild mushrooms. I guess that depends on whether you pick for fun and personal consumption or pick for mass commercial selling. We started looking for mushrooms in early September before any rains arrived. Although many locals wait for the first rains, we decided to take some of our guests to look around the humid areas, such as riverbanks etc and found 2 kg of Boletus edulis (Ceps, Porcini, Penny Buns or King Boletes) and Boletus aereus (Queen Boletes or Porcini Nero), around the pine and oak woods on our first morning. The biggest specimen weighed in at 350grams. We dried most of our pickings and had a wild mushroom feast that evening, with enough left over for a year round supply. These days many of the fancy recipe magazines are full of dishes that call for dried porcini (Italian name) or dried ceps (Basque name) due to their strong flavour. When the rains finally came we changed location and took our group to some meadows, particularly where dead thistles (cardo) were, again finding a nice amount of Pleurotus eryngil ‘Seta de cardo’ known as King Oyster mushrooms in English. These delicately flavoured mushrooms are a favourite with the locals and whilst they don’t pack the same flavour hit as the boletes they are fantastic gently fried with a little garlic, thyme and a dash of lemon. The other popular mushroom collected in this region is the Lactarius deliciosus ‘Nicalo’, Saffron Milk Cap. However these seem to be less abundant this year, but still enough for personal consumption. Soria is fast becoming a popular place to take a weekend away and go mushroom collecting, we of course make sure that our groups only pick the best of the edible species leaving plenty for everyone to enjoy. Hasta Luego SpanishFootsteps

23.10.08 17:42 Permalink / comment

 [next page]