The province of Soria, Northern Spain is one of the least populated regions of Europe. With large swaths of unspoilt countryside, timeless medieval villages and fantastic Romanesque architecture it is developing a reputation as a great destination for leisure walkers and ramblers. And what better way to discover this culturally rich province than to participate in the annual walk along one of the ancient Roman roads. Which is exactly what we did this August.
The walk known as Numantobriga follows along the route of the Roman road that would have connected the settlements Numancia and Augustobriga.
Having completed the inscription process on-line several weeks prior, on the morning of the 9th of August we made our way to the registration point outside the Numancia Museum where we received our commemorative t-shirts and hats before handing over our packs and tent to the organisers who transported them to our overnight camp.
Around 8am the 300 participants entered the museum grounds to watch the first of several re-enactments that would take place over the next two days. The theme for this year’s walk was water. During this first re-enactment we were introduced to Publio Cornelio and his family, who, having run out of clean drinking water, had decided to make the long journey to Augustobriga. Before leaving on foot with one pack horse, the family were already arguing about how much water they would need for the journey, after all they would be (just as we would be) passing several public Roman fountains. Their decision to reduce the amount of water they carried would ultimately decide their fate as we encountered them along the 54km route.
The first 8km stage of the walk took us out of town, along the picturesque banks of the River Duero to the small village of Garray and the site of Numancia (remains of a Celt Iberian and Roman settlement). Having been provided with plenty of refreshments we were then led into Numancia by our Roman family and were welcomed by a Celt Iberian greeting party. Whilst the welcome was in Spanish you didn’t need to understand the language to appreciate the music, costumes and theatrical experience.
After a short break we continued on another 6kms through fairly flat terrain to the small village of Renieblas, which was a stop on the Way of St James (Camino de Santiago) during the middle ages, when this route was a popular pilgrim trail through to Santiago de Compostela. Having recharged ourselves with more refreshments and taken on additional walkers we set off for our lunch destination of Aldehuela de Perianez.
Having completed the first 3 stages slightly earlier than expected we arrived at Aldehuela de Perianez with plenty of time to replenish our fluids and rest our tired feet before sitting down to a hearty midday meal. Awnings had been stretched across one of the village’s small narrow streets, and in the much welcome shade long dining tables had be set up. After all lunch is the main meal for most Spanish and today was no different. Catering for 320 hungry walkers is not an easy feat, but the organisers did a fantastic job, serving up delicious Paella with plenty leftover for those who needed that extra boost. Everyone familiar with Spanish culture knows about ‘siesta’, that one to two hour snooze taken after lunch. And even though we were far from home everyone found themselves a shady, and if you were lucky grassy spot, to rest until our departure time.
The last 8kms of the day were by far the toughest, and as our large group snaked its way through the gently undulating countryside the Red Cross attended to their first blisters and tired feet. The ancient village of Arancon, with its Roman fountain and milestones was a well chosen setting for our second re-enactment. Publio and his family had lost their pack horse. It died after drinking water from one of the public fountains. The family was also fast running out of water themselves and were worried about the journey ahead. We however had no such worries as we were provided once again with plenty of cold fluids and snacks.
Arriving into our overnight encampment around 7pm that evening the 320 walkers more than outnumbered the residents of the Calderuela. Having quenched our thirsts with an ice cold beer the task at hand was to erect our tent and organise our sleeping quarters for the evening. The luxury of having our bags transferred ahead allowed us to pack a few extra comforts we probably wouldn’t have considered otherwise. Like a foot pump for our airbeds, after all we didn’t think we’d have much puff left to blow them up on our own. A cold outdoor shower and a change of clothes revived us for the evening ahead.
A bbq dinner was followed by music, sing and dancing, although like most of our fellow walkers a late night was not had as we kept our 6.30am wake call in mind. And what a wake up call it was! One young man, dressed as the Guardia Civil (Spain’s military Police) started undertaking tent inspections and imposing fines for those in a shabby state. We were also visited by the Pope and asked if we needed morning confession. All in all a very fun and light hearted way to get everyone up and about at such as early hour.
After breakfast of hot chocolate, coffee and sweet rolls it was time to get the encampment packed up and our belongings back in the hands of the organisers so they could be transferred to the end of the walk. At this point we were joined by around 100 additional walkers who had decided to undertake one of the shorter options of the event. Most walkers also choose this point to put on their red commemorative T-shirts as the event organisers had requested that everyone wear them for the last stage into Augustobriga.
We headed off around 7.30am, the perfect time of day for capturing some great shots of the surrounding landscape and the long red trail of walkers. Making our way past fields of wheat and rye we managed to see several Roe Deer who had come down for a morning feed. After a refreshment stop in Masegososo we were once again treated to an instalment of the drama unfolding for Publio and his family. Now without water they had no choice but to risk drinking from the public fountains.
The next 6kms through to Alto del Madero was by far the toughest. With a 100m ascent over uneven and at times rocky ground and with temperatures rising, the sight of our refreshment stop was thankfully not a mirage. With lunch in our sights we completed the next stage with its 145m descent in a little less than 2 hours. Along the trail we came across Publio and his family. Publio’s daughter had contracted leprosy and was unrecognisable. The rest of the family having now found safe drinking water treated us to a very much appreciated sprinkling. This made me think. We’d undertaken this journey for enjoyment and had been provided with everything we needed along the way, but this route had been travelled many times before, at times out of a necessity to survive.
On arrival into Matalebreras we were greet by scenes of hundreds of jubilant walkers washing their weary feet in the park fountain, lounging on the lush green grass and treating themselves to a well earned rest. After another fantastic lunch and of course a siesta, and with the group now numbering 492 we set of at a measured pace for our final destination, the Roman settlement of Augustobriga.
Arriving into Augustobriga we were given 15 minutes to rest before our Roman escorts marched us into the village of Muro, about 200m further up the hill. Here our group was presented to the awaiting Roman officials who welcomed us. Whilst we had been walking 54kms to get here from Soria, the villagers of Muro had been transforming themselves and their village into a Roman settlement, complete with evening meal, festival and Roman games and music, which was such as delightful and fun way of finishing this long and rewarding walk.
Hasta Luego
SpanishFootsteps
